2008 171 7 Mon 12:56:26 PM
































































































































































































































































































































Roofing Information

Roof Anatomy
Roof Types

Roof Pitch
Roof Expectancy
Pros and Cons of Roofing Repairs

 

Siding Information

Siding Types

 

Building Codes

Questions You Should Ask Your Contractor


Helpful Links


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Roof Help

Jenkins Slate

Professional Roofing



 

 

Roof Anatomy



1.  rafter

10. down spout

2.  collar beam

11. splash block

3.  ridge board

12.  rake

4.  solid decking

13.  lookout

5.  felt underlayment

14.  fascia

6.  shingles

15.  ridge board

7.  vent pipe flashing

16.  valley underlayment

8.  chimney flashing

17.  valley flashing

9.  gutter

18.  spaced sheathing


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Roof Types

Gable


Mansard
Gambrel
Hip
  Flat

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Roof Pitch

Determining Roof Pitch

  1. Take a carpenter’s level and place it against your roof as show in the illustration below.  Be sure it is level.

  2. From the point where the level touches the roof, measure out 12 inches.

  3. From this point, measure the distance in inches from the bottom of the level to the roof.

  4. This will be the first number in the roof pitch.  The second number is always 12.

Your “ROOF PITCH” is simply how far the roof drops vertically for every 12” of horizontal run.

Roof Pitch

Pitch Amount of Drop
2:12 1"
3:12 1 1/2"
4:12 2"
5:12 2 1/2"
6:12 3"
7:12 3 1/2"
8:12 4"
9:12 4 1/2"
10:12 5"
11:12 5 1/2"
12:12 6"


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Roof Expecantcy

Asphalt and wood shingles and shakes 15-30 years
Tile (depends on quality of tile and climate) 50 years
Slate (depends on grade) 50-100 years
Sheet metal 20-50+ years
Built-up roofing, asphalt 12-25 years
Built-up roofing, coal and tar 12-30 years
Asphalt composition shingle 15-30 years
Asphalt overlag 25-35 years
Source: National Roofing Contractors Association

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Pros and Cons of Roofing Repairs

Your roof is wearing out – right now. Thanks to the UV radiation that bakes roof shingles until they are brittle, the summer sun takes more years out of a roof's life than any other environmental factor. If your roof is looking a little worse for wear, the summer is also a good time to think about having it repaired or replaced.

 

First, roof leaks can almost always be repaired without replacing the roof. Most roofs leak due to flashing problems, typically at an intersection of two roof components; roof and plumbing vent, roof and chimney, roof and wall, etc. An easy way to help pinpoint that leak is by strategically rinsing down each area with a hose until the offending spot is found.

 

Replacing a roof, on the other hand, is something that has to be done periodically, and is seldom done because of an obvious leak. More commonly, the shingles have dried out and become cracked, brittle and deteriorated to the point where the roof remains saturated under the roof shingles, causing slow decay rather than an obvious stick-the-bucket-under-it leak.

 

While spot repair may be possible if the majority of your roof surface has plenty of mileage left in it, if your roof is approaching the 20-year mark (or so), replacement is a better way to go.

 

If you do replace your roof, do you add another layer, or do you completely replace it? Here are the pros and cons of that decision:

 

 

If your roof's condition provides the opportunity to choose between these options, consider the number of years you plan to stay in your re-roofed home. If a long haul is in the cards, a whole new roof is the wise choice, while a shorter stay justifies saving cash with the second-layer option.

 

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Siding Types

Aluminum
The world became interested in using aluminum as a siding material in the late 1950s. After hundreds of years of wood clapboards, which required sanding and painting to keep them in good condition, aluminum was touted as a durable, easily maintainted alternative. Unlike vinyl, aluminum does not crack. It works well to cover thin clapboard and is fireproof. It poses no health risks to the occupants and is considered fairly environmentally friendly. It’s inexpensive, but it does have some disadvantages to consider before taking the plunge into aluminum siding. A ladder set against it will dent it, making home maintenance such as washing windows something of a problem.

Brick
Brick homes have stood the test of time - many are still standing after hundreds of years of weathering the elements and whatever comes along. Brick, which is fired clay, comes in more colors than just brick red, giving it an added quality not often thought of. The colors range within the earth tone palette. Worrying about repairs is unlikely for a good 25 years or so, and that makes every homeowner smile. The expense of a brick exterior may seem daunting, but should be somewhat alleviated by the knowledge that your house is here to stay. If the price is just too much, you might consider brick veneer. There’s always a pay off, however; in this case, less money means less enduring.


Cedar Shingles
Cedar shingles look great in natural settings, and if the natural look is important to you, then cedar shakes may be the answer. The shakes or shingles are usually stained in earth tones, browns, or grays. This is a really great look with less upkeep than clapboard that needs painting periodically.


Engineered or Composite Wood
Made with wood products and other materials to look like wood, these engineered materials are far less expensive than using wood for siding. Engineered or composite wood comes in long panels that are easily installed and will give a neat, seamless look to your home.


Seamless Steel
Anything made of steel is going to be durable, and seamless steel siding is no exception. It can be manufactured to resemble wood textures. Unlike vinyl, it does not shrink or bulge when the temperature rises and falls. There’s no splicing done during installation and you’ll not have to worry about peeling paint. It can be cut to the exact measurements of your home, giving it a very finished look.


Stone
Stone is the most enduring of all the various materials that can be used for siding. Besides the eye appeal stone gives to homes, rain, snow, ice, and heat have little effect on it. Just as stone is high in durability, it’s also high in price. You can opt for less expensive cultured stone from Corning, which is pre-cast stone veneer and facing.


Stucco
Stucco is nothing more than cement combined with water and other ingredients like sand or lime. This method of creating a shell for home has been around since the Renaissance because of its strength and durability. The rock hard surface created by stucco is solid and keeps moisture out. There are synthetic stuccos available. Although they look authentic, the synthetic stucco offers less durability. Only you can decide if price or durability is most important to you.


Vinyl
Vinyl siding is a plastic made from PVC, or polyvinyl chloride. The advantages of never having to worry about rot and flaking paint makes this exterior covering attractive to many consumers. However, with a lower price tag comes problems. Vinyl siding has a tendency to crack, split, and look faded and dingy after a few years. Manufacturers have made improvements on these problems, but they still exist. The environmentally conscious may not want to choose vinyl due to the problems it creates when it is removed - PVCs release toxins when burned, making vinyl not environmentally friendly.


Wood Clapboard
Wood siding has been used for hundreds of years, and seeing a 300-year-old clapboard house is testimony to the durability of wood when properly maintained. Cedar, pine, spruce, redwood, Cyprus, or Douglas fir are the woods used most often. Pine holds finishes extremely well, giving it added value.

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Questions You Should Ask Your Contractor

How long have you been in business?
What Associations do you belong to?

Do you provide the permits?

Do you have any refrences?

 

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